When the worst of my eczema had subsided (thank you environmental changes and lowered stress levels!), I was still left with incredibly reactive, sensitive skin. I was afraid to touch anything other than the most basic cleanser and moisturizer with a 10 foot pole. I self-imposed that many skincare products were “off limits” to my skin.

Because of this, I remained unaware of skincare acids completely. I heard the word “acid” and ran for the hills, assuming there was no way my skin could tolerate any of it. However, in reality that’s not quite true. Not only are some acids considered safe for sensitive skin, but there’s also the idea of using lower concentrations of these acids less frequently to avoid your skin reacting to them.

Thanks to all the knowledgeable people here at Graydon Skincare, I get so much expert insight whenever I have questions about my own skin. When I first posed the question, “Can I use acids if I have sensitive skin?” it led not to a simple yes or no, but a ton of useful information that gave me the confidence to try skincare acids out.

So keep reading, because I’m going to share what I’ve learned as a skincare acid “newbie” surrounded by experts and as someone with very fussy skin.

What to Know About Acids and Sensitive Skin

If I were to sum up my biggest takeaway when learning about skincare acids, it would be the tried and true advice most experts recommend–low and slow. On the flip side, two words I’d use when talking about sensitive skin would be trial and error. Though I wish it wasn’t the case, we have to patch test everything, because as much as we can find guidance with labels like sensitive skin friendly, dermatologist tested, and hypoallergenic, we still need to approach every new product with caution just to be safe.

Low and Slow

Most skincare acids come in varying levels of concentration. You’ve probably seen this on serum bottles (serums are the most potent way for the skin to absorb ingredients, btw!) where you’ll see an ingredient listed side-by-side with a percentage. Each ingredient is different, but I’ve noticed across most that, in general 5% is a low concentration, 10% is a mid-to-high level concentration, and 15% and above is a high concentration. However, let me stress that this info is only good as a starting point–if you want to know by ingredient, please do your research! I’ve got some info later on about specific acids’ concentrations that can help. Also, many acids are not supposed to be used every day. In fact, some–especially if you have sensitive skin–only go on once a week. You have to build up a tolerance to both the concentration of the acid and the frequency with which you use it.

That’s where the idea of low and slow comes in. Even if you don’t have sensitive skin, your skin needs to acclimate to certain acids. What you do is start with a low concentration and only use it once a week. After a week or two, if your skin is not reacting, you can decide if to up it to twice a week, and continue to increase frequency as long as your skin is happy. You might get to the point where you can use it daily. You might stay at once a week. The only right answer is what your skin tells you. 

You have to build up a tolerance to both the concentration of the acid and the frequency with which you use it.

From there, you can play around with concentration. Your skin might love the transition from a 5% concentration twice a week to a 7% or 10% concentration at the same frequency. This is another one where you have to listen to your skin.

If your skin reacts at any point, you likely are using the acid too frequently or need to try a lower concentration.

Avoid the Percentage Game

There are also ways to avoid the whole low and slow process when using acids, since it can cause a lot of reactions and sensitivity as you figure out the right concentration and frequency.

Avoid irritating acids altogether: The low and slow process isn’t relevant to the acids that are non-exfoliating and can be used on a daily basis. These–such a hyaluronic acid–are likely used to hydrate the skin.

Get smaller amounts from multifunctional products: It’s also good to remember that you might be getting some amount of acids in your current daily routine products. For example, I use Aloe Milk and Face Foam daily to double cleanse. I’m getting some exfoliation from the willow bark-derived BHA in Face Foam–therefore, I wouldn’t incorporate another BHA acid in my routine, unless it also had a low concentration. This is your sign to check what you’re already using and see if any of the acids below are in your products!

Use gentle alternatives: There are a lot of alternatives to ingredients that typically cause reactions for those with sensitive skin. Graydon Skincare uses many–such as our antioxidant-rich botanical alternatives to vitamin C and other traditionally irritating ingredients like retinol.

Protect Your Skin

One last note–sensitive skin comes in many different forms. For example, I can tolerate some exfoliating acids, whereas my boyfriend, who has psoriasis, has yet to find one he feels comfortable using (I’m in the process of convincing him to try a BHA). I won’t tell you that something that worked for my sensitive skin is guaranteed to work for yours. 

This is where my mention of trial and error comes in.

Luckily, you know your skin. As you learn more about acids in the next sections, you’ll get a sense of what your skin might say hell yes to, and what might set off the warning bells. 

Sensitive skin comes in many different forms. We all have things that do and don't work for our skin health.

And don’t forget–many of these acids can strip your skin barrier. If you’re going to use these ingredients, make sure you’re also using products that will support your barrier like Jade Moon Serum. A good moisturizer is important, too. I personally enjoy using either Skin Stuff, Putty, or Berry Rich because they’re soothing and deeply hydrating on my sensitive combination skin.

I found this from Skin Therapist Seanna Cohen particularly helpful: “A lot of ingredients can promote inflammation if used incorrectly. If you’re overusing AHAs for exfoliating, retinol products, or even some serums your skin might not agree with–like a vitamin C serum–it can cause inflammation. These aren’t bad ingredients or products, but it’s more beneficial to not overuse them or look for alternatives that will better promote skin health and rejuvenate skin long term.”

Categorizing Skincare Acids

Skincare acids can be divided up into categories based on the chemical structure of them. Typically, you’ll find an acid is either an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), but polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are starting to become more popular in skincare. Vitamin C can also be considered a skincare acid. Plus, there’s a few popular acids that don’t fit these categories at all!

AHAs

Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble and are often used to brighten and smooth skin, as well as reduce hyperpigmentation. People commonly use AHAs for acne and texture–including uneven skin and fine lines and wrinkles.

AHAs exfoliate the skin by breaking down the top layer of old skin cells so new ones can grow–this increases cell turnover, something that naturally slows down as we age. Beyond skincare, AHAs are naturally found in foods like citrus fruits, grapes, sugarcane, and more.

Something important to note is that AHAs increase your skin’s photosensitivity to the sun. All AHAs are better used at night, and an SPF during the day is necessary to protect your skin. AHAs are also humectants, so they help with skin hydration.

Some common AHAs include:

Glycolic Acid

• Comes from sugarcane (but can be synthetically made)
• Can cause skin irritation
• Better in lower concentrations (<5%) for sensitive skin
• Commonly used for acne, dark spots, and fine lines

Lactic Acid

• Comes from fermenting lactose (but can be synthetically made)
• Considered a gentler AHA, so could be suitable for some sensitive skin
• A 5% concentration is recommended for those with sensitive skin
• Is antimicrobial
• Commonly used to firm, brighten, and smooth skin

Mandelic Acid

• Comes from bitter almonds (but can be synthetically made)
• Also considered a gentle AHA as mandelic acid has a larger molecular size so it absorbs more slowly into the skin
• A high concentration would be considered 10% or more
• Helps reduce acne, fine lines, and uneven skin texture. Also used to unclog pores.

BHAs

Beta hydroxy acids are oil soluble. Because of that, they penetrate deeper into the skin which can help unclog pores and clear up acne and skin issues like comedones. They also exfoliate skin and remove dead skin cells, dirt, and oil build up. While AHAs exfoliate the skin’s surface, BHAs mostly penetrate and work in the pore, which make them more suitable for sensitive skin. 

BHAs cause less photosensitivity than AHAs, so they can be used in the morning or evening. However, sunscreen during the day is still needed to fully protect mildly photosensitized skin. Some people with psoriasis or seborrheic dermatitis actually use BHAs to exfoliate skin without irritation.

Some common BHAs include:

Salicylic Acid

• Comes from the bark of plants such as willows (but can be synthetically made)
• Low concentrations of salicylic acid is considered safe for sensitive skin, but some may not be able to use it daily
• A 2% concentration is considered the norm for daily use, but many products, particularly ones formulated for body care, offer a 0.5% concentration as well
• Salicylic acid can often be paired with dry or sensitizing ingredients in acne products–look out for and avoid alcohol, clarifying essential oils (like tea tree), and sodium lauryl sulfate
• We use white willow extract, which contains a natural form of salicylic acid, to offer gentle exfoliation in our Face Foam cleanser

PHAs

What sets polyhydroxy acids apart from AHAs and BHAs is their larger molecular size. This means these acids don’t penetrate as deeply into the epidermis and are therefore better for those with sensitive skin or skin conditions. Like AHAs and BHAs, PHAs are chemical exfoliants and can be used to even out skin texture and soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

A great benefit to PHAs is that they also help strengthen the skin barrier and have humectant properties, meaning they exfoliate without drying out or stripping the skin.

Vitamin C

The topical vitamin C we use in skincare is called L-ascorbic acid. Unlike AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs, vitamin C is not an exfoliating acid. It’s pretty common for those with sensitive skin to have trouble with vitamin C since it’s got a low pH level and can weaken the skin barrier. In fact, Graydon wrote an entire article exploring gentle alternatives to it. I’d recommend having a peek at that article to find out more about vitamin c and skin sensitivity.

Acids Outside These Categories

Not all acids fit into one of these categories. That’s why I’ve listed them here so you can still get some basic info on them!

Hyaluronic Acid

• A sugar molecule rather than a “true” acid
• Can be plant or animal-derived
• Is not an exfoliating acid
• Suitable for sensitive skin and daily use
• Hydrates and improves skin elasticity
• Vegan HA extracted from senna is used in Supermoon Serum

Azelaic Acid

• Derived from grains like wheat, rye, and barley (but can be synthetically made)
• Commonly used on acne and rosacea
• Brightens skin and evens texture
• An antibacterial and anti-inflammatory acid that is suitable for sensitive skin 
• Used in our daily exfoliating cleanser, Face Foam

Natural, Multifunctional Options for Daily Use

You might have noticed I put a caveat beside most of these acids: “can be synthetically made”.

That’s because acids derived from plants, on the whole, contain less active compounds and are therefore less irritating than synthetic acids. Graydon Skincare uses natural, vegan ingredients to create products that are all multifunctional, suitable for daily use, and clinically tested for sensitive skin.

Acids derived from plants are less irritating than synthetic acids.

Our Supermoon Serum contains a gentle, botanical alternative to vitamin C called moringa oleifera–it makes a great swap for a vitamin C serum for those with sensitive skin. (Plus, it also contains hyaluronic acid, peptides, and two bio-retinols).

Face Foam exfoliates using white willow bark extract and azelaic acid while being gentle on sensitive skin. I personally love using Face Foam to help me tackle my texture issues. Other gel and foaming cleansers in the past have left my skin feeling tight, rough, and red after use, but Face Foam doesn’t irritate me. I always make sure to use something hydrating afterwards to protect my barrier.

Using Acids on Sensitive Skin

During a forum on the topic of skin longevity, Graydon shared something that I could really relate to: “I struggled with skin inflammation and rosacea, but still I wanted to have the benefits of skincare acids in a way my body would accept and absorb.”

It felt like I was missing out on being able to care for all facets of my skin–including my acne and texture–because I had to first and foremost handle my extremely sensitive, reactive skin and eczema. 

Only recently have I discovered that exfoliators, toners, and serums don’t have to sting like crazy when I use them–trying natural, low concentration products has been a huge help!